Airén: A Vin from La Mancha

Airén is grown in huge quantities in La Mancha. In fact, by hectare count it's Spain's — and possibly the world's — most heavily planted grape, and yet we see little of it in the States. Perhaps that's because much of it is turned into brandy, and perhaps that's because it reputedly makes for a dull wine, as you might suspect from a white grape grown in a torridly hot region.

And yet, the 2007 Bodegas Sierra Virgen Airén is a dry, $10 airén that shows some decent character. All hail temperature control: the wine's freshness is immediately apparent, and this does have good acids to compliment its medium body. The aromas feature honeysuckle and honeydew, while its mouthfeel is simultaneously round, clean, and refreshing, with mouthsmacking acidity. It's on the finish where this airén distinguishes itself, thanks to the hint of fresh herbs, especially tarragon and sage, that linger.

Interestingly, the airén grape is also known as manchega — and that's also the name for the sheep from whose milk Manchego is made. I didn't try this wine with Manchego, but I wouldn't be surprised if this turned out to be a good pairing.